As New York Fashion Week approaches, hundreds of new faces fill the streets of Manhattan—models competing for their moment under the runway spotlights. For many, a single booking can be the catalyst for a long and successful career; securing the job is only the first step, and the runway performance is everything. But how do these emerging models prepare for high-pressure castings? And how do they master their walk when called to perform?
Connie Fleming is the answer for many of these young talents. Many arrive having learned to walk in their home countries or from watching runway videos online, often needing to refine their technique—or unlearn bad habits and start entirely from scratch.
Fleming emerged in the fashion world during the 1980s amid New York’s vibrant downtown fashion and performance art scene. She caught the eye of designers like Patricia Field and Andre Walker, who cast her in their runway shows. Soon after, she gained acclaim from houses like Thierry Mugler and Vivienne Westwood. Her modeling career flourished, with photographers like Steven Klein and Steven Meisel cementing her status as an industry muse.
Through her involvement in the art world and years of collaborating on production and casting with longtime friend Patricia Field, Fleming developed deep industry expertise before transitioning into runway coaching. With alumni including Arlenis Sosa, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Erin Heatherton, and Brooklyn Decker, she brings a wealth of insight to the next generation of models:
What do you enjoy most about coaching young models for the runway?
Helping them build confidence and watching them grow, evolve, and adapt to the creative vision of each designer.
To an outsider, walking a runway might seem simple—put on the clothes, maintain a strong expression, and walk. Given the demand for a coach, what else goes into mastering the walk?
It comes down to attitude, presence, pace, and making a connection with the eyes. It’s about being fully present in the moment and embodying the overall creative statement of the collection.
What is the most critical skill for these models to develop?
Understanding the client’s creative direction and brand aesthetic, mastering body alignment to complement the garment’s silhouette, and feeling entirely comfortable in their own skin.
Do model agents typically provide specific instructions or ever interfere with your process?
Every model has different needs at any given moment. An agent might ask to focus on a specific walk for an upcoming show or help a new face step out of her shell. I’ve never experienced friction with agents; ultimately, they know their talent best. They also receive direct feedback from casting directors and clients, so it becomes a collaborative effort to get the model ready.
What is the most challenging aspect of being a runway coach?
Time. There isn’t always enough time to prepare a model as thoroughly as I’d like before show week begins.
How does it feel to see models you’ve coached succeed in major campaigns, editorials, and shows?
Naturally, it’s rewarding. It is wonderful to see them apply the techniques and poise we developed during our sessions.
Do you stay in touch with the models you’ve worked with?
We cross paths at events and shows from time to time. They are busy building dynamic careers, and I couldn’t be happier for their success.
What is your most important piece of advice for aspiring models?
Do your homework on the industry—study the designers, fashion houses, key publications, and digital platforms. Most importantly, recognize that this is a demanding business that can be tough at times. You need a thick skin and the ability not to take critiques personally.
What goals are you currently focused on achieving?
There are still several creative avenues I want to explore. I am currently developing various personal projects, including a collection of fashion illustrations I have worked on for years, which I plan to exhibit soon.
- Originally published on Lookbooks.
